Aug 01 2016

A Breather in Brittany


As July dawned we climbed into our car and fled to France. We left a hectic June behind us: our wonderful Open Garden weekend, the tragic loss of two good friends, the referendum and a country in political chaos. Wearily we boarded the great “Amorique” in Plymouth bound for Roscoff. We set off for a quiet week with friends in northern Britanny. It seems we were just in time, the calm before the storm, before terrorist attacks across France and Germany left even more pain, distress and uncertainty. We were lucky, our busy Sunday night channel crossing ran like clockwork. By late morning on Monday we were relaxing in the beautiful La Ville Douallan just south of Lamballe.

We laughed together, went for long walks, visited beautiful little villages and towns, ate wonderful food. We relaxed in their garden in the evening sun, amongst the roses, enjoying the “aperitif”.

Les Eglantines

And of course we went, as usual, to the Moulerie de la Baie at Jospinet, a tiny bay, on the coast just west of Pleneuf-Val-Andre. Every time we visit we make the little pilgrimage north to eat Antoine’s wonderful Bouchot moule.

This time it was extra special. We arrived a little early. It was a beautiful evening so we strolled down the slipway to the sea. As we reached the water’s edge we watched large fishing boats approaching. A tractor and trailer drove past us to meet them. Suddenly the boats, one at a time, rose out of the water like huge dinosaurs and drove onto the slipway on great wheels. No mooring lines, no quay, no jetty, they simply drove up the slipway onto the road.


The first boat stopped briefly to unload part of the catch onto the tractor and trailer then off they all went down the road to their depot. We crept by later to see these strange boat-lorries neatly parked up in a line on dry land, fisherman’s wet suits drying beside them in the evening breeze!

Antoine fed us huge wonderful plates of moule and frites. He let us take photographs of his lovely restaurant as he explained how the mussels are sourced.
Bouchot mussel culture is an intertidal traditional aquaculture technique for farming mussels. The bouchots, French for pilings, are placed in the sea and the mussels are grown on ropes strung from these poles. According to a French C16th text, bouchot mussels go back to 1235 when a Scotsman, Patrick Walton was shipwrecked in the Bay of d’Aiguillon. He began to hunt seabirds, just as he had in Scotland, by driving wooden poles into the sea and stretching nets between them. He noticed mussels growing on the poles and he soon realised it was much more profitable to grow mussels than hunt seabirds. The modern bouchot technique took off in 1954 and Normandy and Brittany are the leading producers. There are thousands and thousands of poles in the bay of St Brieuc alone, owned by many different mussel farmers.

Anshorstone Cafe

Mussel farming is growing in our waters here in the South West too. There are sites in Lyme Bay, Exmouth and Brixham Harbour. Our own wonderful Anchorstone cafés in Dittisham, Dartmouth and Sharpham serve delicious Moules Mariniere. Claire Harvey, chef-patron, told me she sources her mussels from Brixham where the waters are clear and there is a strong tidal flow. They are a naturally occurring hybrid of the Mytilus Edulis mussel (the native or blue mussel) and Mytilus Galloprovincialis (the Mediterranean mussel) which is well suited to conditions found in Torbay..
The whole process is surprisingly natural, creating a local haven for all sorts of other marine life. Once the poles and nets are in place the wild spat or free floating planktonic seed mussels fix themselves to the structures. No special feed is required, no chemicals or fertilisers, just clean tidal waters.

By the time the seed mussels are about two centimetres long, usually in August, they need thinning. The seed collecting lines are pulled up and stripped and the seed mussels are fed into “sockings”, a continuous cotton stocking with a rope down the middle onto which the mussels attach themselves. They put out byssal threads and secrete a cement- like fluid which hardens in the water. This way they anchor themselves to the ropes and feed on the tiny micro-organisms in the tidal flow. When they are 18 months to 2 years old and 50 to 60 mm long the mussels are harvested from the growing lines. Cylinders with two open doors at the bottom are lowered over the poles. The doors are then closed and as the cylinders are raised they strip the mussels from the ropes. After grading and landing, the live mussels are placed in cleansing depuration tanks before being distributed to fish markets, wholesalers and restaurants.

Moules Mariniere
This is the classic mussel dish, so quick and easy to prepare and so delicious!
But first make absolutely sure the mussels are clean and grit- free. To do this tip them into a large bowl and cover with plenty of cold water. Scrape away the hairy beard or byssus which attached the mussel to the rope or rock on which it grew. Throw out any which are damaged or refuse to open in the water. Drain and rinse again in more water. Don’t be tempted to leave them too long in fresh water; it will kill them.
Allow at least 50 grams of mussels per person, more if you have them!
To feed four people chop two onions and a couple of fat cloves of garlic. Put the onion, garlic, 3 tablespoons of chopped parsley, 200ml white wine, 150ml water and a little black pepper in a large pan. Simmer for ten minutes then raise the heat and when the liquid is boiling quickly, tip in the mussels. Put a lid on the pan and give it a good shake over the heat for a few minutes until the mussels are open. Discard any that refuse to open.
Scoop out the cooked mussels into a warm bowl and keep warm. Strain the liquor through a fine sieve or coffee filter paper to remove any stubborn grit, then return to the pan and quickly bring to the boil while whisking in 30grms of butter. Serve the mussels in their liquor with more chopped parsley, crusty bread or, of course, the ubiquitous frites!
There are, of course, many variations on this theme! At Antoine’s Moulerie a couple of weeks ago I had a delicious version with tiny leeks, pancetta and cream. Others chose mild curry spices, both quite wonderful.
Next time it will be Brixham Moule at the Anchorstone café!

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Jul 01 2016

Unsettled Summer


Raindrops hammer against my study window as I write; a black sky sits ominously overhead; gloom fills the air. Early this morning Millie and I walked over the hills, heads down, she chasing rabbits, me checking damp sheep huddled in the hedgerow. Water trickled off my coat down my trousers and into my wellies; squelch, squelch. We walked in a strange eerie circle of mist, no sign of Dartmoor from the top fields; the River Dart just a faint watery shadow below us. Neighbour John’s big silo, a strange medieval turret floating in the mist across the valley. I felt I was walking through some strange metaphor of our country’s confusion and turmoil since the Referendum; nothing clear, everything blurry and uncertain, familiar landmarks taking on new ghostly shapes. Where am I, I wonder? The landscape seems so familiar, and yet?

This June has rattled through, wet windy and uncertain. For weeks politicians have been fighting their corner each clamouring for our attention, good or bad. But all the while everyday life goes on.

And the winners....!

The County Show came and went. Sheep were judged, alpaca too and cows, pigs and poultry .

All things agricultural were on show for all to share and much more too. Cider and beer flowed, food stalls fed us handsomely. Tractors, harvesters, hedgers and ditchers, all things mechanical could be found for the farm.

Dog shows, horse shows, pony trials even donkeys, hurrah, had their place!

My Donkeys!

The crowds flocked in day after day, happy people filled the showground. And the Hurdy-gurdy played on.

Next came sheep shearing, dagging and spraying. The relentless rain meant sheep had to come into the shed the evening before shearing to be sure their fleece would be dry.

Rams were sorted into pens well away from ewes and lambs. Next morning we separated mothers and children for the first time. The cacophony was ear splitting as they called each other across the yard.

Phil arrived as usual, setting up his shearing pen at midday. Paul man-handled sheep, one by one, pushing them through to Phil for their annual haircut. I folded fleece and placed them in the woolsack as they have been placed for hundreds of years. White, lighter, shorn and clean, the itch-free ladies went back to their children and more confusion ensued, mothers unrecognisable without their winter coats; more barging and baa-ing, then happy reunions   We finished at 6 o’clock, a long day.

And all the while preparations continued for our National Garden Scheme Open Days. We dashed out between storms and squalls to dig borders, plant vegetables, trim edges, cut grass, prepare the plant stall and complete a myriad of other tasks. Signs went up, the Anchorstone Cafe donated hundreds of scones, Dartmouth Dairy insisted on giving huge quantities of clotted a cream. Dear friends lined up to help at the gate, serve teas, marshal parking, sell plants; the weekend arrived.

Saturday was truly wonderful. Despite cold evenings, the roses did bloom in time. Even “Seagull” reluctantly opened her petals over the pond. The waterlilies exploded into magnificence and delphiniums reached for the sky. Embothrium held onto her flowers so late we had a scarlet shadow across the sky. And as always the astrantia proved to be star of the show.

Eighty people filled our garden, even the sun tried a bit of shining. Cream teas flew from the Hut and my head spun with plant names and happiness. But, alas, rain returned the next day. Even so twenty five stalwarts turned up braving the elements. Tuesday brought sun and a local gardening club and, to our delight, Jilly Sutton’s beautiful “Big Fish” sculpture sold, so all was not lost.

Despite the weather we were delighted to be able to send nearly £1300 to support the NGS nursing charities.

So life goes on as politicians ponder, prevaricate and procrastinate, world markets helter skelter, journalists try to alarm or calm. On Sunday we leave for a week in France. I wonder what the mood will be there!

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Apr 13 2016

Spring at Last

Oh how wonderful, a spring morning at last. Sun warmed my back for the first time today, as I climbed the hill as usual with the dogs to check the ewes and lambs and feed our shy visitors.

Slowly the valley is awakening. As the first day of Spring arrived the rain did stop for a while, even the sharp north wind dropped briefly, fooling us that winter was behind us. But, alas, it was to be just a temporary reprieve; storms, gales, icy rain and sleet returned battering their way through Easter holidays and beyond.

As waterlogged fields begin at last to drain we wait anxiously,well into April, for signs of new grass to appear up the valley. We need it badly to feed hungry ewes and lambs.

Maybe today will really be the start of Spring. The sky is full of birds busying about, shouting greetings to one another, house hunting furiously for a suitable place for this year’s family. The hedgerows are thickening and the orchard is a mass of yellow, a host, indeed, of golden daffodils. All so uplifting after such a long wet, muddy winter punctuated by violent storms and endless dark grey days. And, have you noticed, as the sun shines people begin to raise their faces from the ground, smile and greet one another in the street.

We lambed just thirty sheep this year; twenty-five pedigree Whiteface Dartmoor’s plus five cross-breed ewes, old timers we can’t bear to lose! We have thirty-four lambs including eight sets of twins, a record for us. All are grazing with their mothers in Sunday Orchard, the huge field just beyond the yard. We will continue to feed them until the grass finally begins to grow.

Each year we bring the ewes into the big shed in the farmyard for two or three days after they have lambed. The babies are tagged, their numbers recorded and their tails docked. They stay in the nursery until we are sure all is well and they are strong and feeding.

Then with Gheorge’s help Paul moves them up the hill to pastures new. They are loaded into our smart new stock box and driven up in batches to a south facing field. The babies soon begin to bounce and spin in the sometime-sunshine, playing in little groups watched over by the ewe on playgroup duty. Much time can be lost just standing and watching them play.

Rams rest up on the hill, their work complete while wethers eat quietly in another field until they go to market.

Today we will be selecting out a group to go to the local abattoir from our regular customers. Paul will take them there later this week, early in the morning. They will be dispatched immediately to avoid distress. Not only is this humane but also prevents a build-up of adrenalin in the meat. Our local butcher, Richard Pollard of Pollard’s Quality Meats in Dartmouth, will then collect the carcases. He will hang them for a week before butchering them to each customer’s requirements. Hogget has a rounder deeper flavour than early lamb, the meat rich and dark. And contrary to popular belief it is not at all fatty like our erstwhile images of grey, fatty school dinners; well mine anyway!! Indeed, Hugh Fearnly-Whitingstall waxes lyrical about hogget in his wonderful River Cottage Meat Book, and he’s right!

So this afternoon’s boys will have had a short but happy life and go on, in a small way, to feed the nation, which, after all, is a farmer’s job. We breed our stock to improve the blood line of our breed and to provide food for our discerning customers! The cycle continues.

. Vicarage Mutton

“Hot on Sunday

Cold on Monday

Hashed on Tuesday

Minced on Wednesday

Curried Thursday

Broth on Friday

Cottage pie Saturday”

Cooking Hogget

At last the rain may have stopped but I fear, only briefly! So I need to cook comforting food to restore my equilibrium, but it must be light delicious summer food.  Somehow I think it better be Hogget!

I’ll roast a shoulder with garlic and rosemary and serve it with young vegetables, some potatoes and mange tout peas perhaps. Or I’ll take a little more time and pleasure to prepare a traditional Navarin Printanier based on a recipe from my old copy of Jane Grigson’s wonderful “Vegetable Book”.

This is not a dish for stewing lamb. It calls for tender, lean meat which will cook gently but quite quickly. I prefer to cut up a shoulder or even use a boned out loin. Take a little time to trim off any fat and sinew before cutting the meat into fairly small pieces.

Melt a large piece of butter and a little oil in a heavy oven proof pan that has a well-fitting lid. Incidentally, the oil stops the butter burning and becoming bitter. Brown the meat quickly turning it over with a wooden spoon until sealed. Then take it out and set aside.

Chop a shallot and crush a garlic clove or two. Add to the buttery juices in the pan and, heating gently, allow them to soften slightly. Stir in a spoonful or two of flour scraping up the meat juices and mixing to a thin paste. Gradually add some stock and a little tomato puree.

Return the browned meat. Heat gently, adjust the consistency, which should be creamy, by adding more stock if necessary. Bring slowly to the boil, cover the pan with its lid and place in a moderate oven for about an hour. Test the meat with a skewer to see if it is tender. If not return to the oven for a little longer but don’t overdo it.

Meanwhile prepare some young fresh root vegetables; new potatoes, very young turnips and whole baby carrots. Once the meat is tender add these and cook for a scant half hour without the lid.  Top and tail some mange-tout or shell some peas and broad beans, slice your first runner beans or harvest the early French beans; use what you have in your garden or what you can find in your local farmer’s market.

Blanche the vegetables very briefly in plenty of boiling water, drain well and add to the lamb. Heat through, skim off absolutely any remaining fat, (there shouldn’t be much if you took time to trim your meat) taste and add salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serve on warm plates with hot, crusty bread.

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Feb 10 2016

Wild Weather

The tranquil River Dart is transformed into a raging brown torrent. White horses dance over glistening mud flats and rocky outcrops as brackish water hurtles towards the sea. The shore line, brown and bedraggled, is stripped bare by the racing tide. Rain fills the valley in a huge sideways curtain misting its way along the rivers path. Mighty gale force gusts lift me off my feet as puppy and I climb the hill to check the wethers. The clever boys have found shelter on the lower slopes protecting themselves against the wind pressed into the hedgerow; savvy, hardy Dartmoor sheep.

It has rained relentlessly for weeks now. Storm follows storm. Water levels are getting dangerously high, the land is sodden, waterlogged even, on the hills. Donkeys and chickens are confined to barracks; the former because the wet is so damaging to their feet and the latter because a large dog fox sauntered by in broad daylight a day or two ago looking for another tasty snack. A mound of feathers lie soaking near the yard, evidence of a previous feast.


The air is so strangely mild that the garden has erupted in unseasonably early bloom, everything at once. Snowdrops sweep down the hillside, early double daffodils lie flattened in the orchard. Camellias rock in the wind, petals filling the air. Crocus, emerge through the grass far too soon, their tiny purple and yellow trumpets helpless in the wind.

Then suddenly silence. We wake to a new dawn without a sound. The storm has passed, the sky is clear and the whirring whine of the wind has ceased. Sunlight forces its way between tiny gaps in the cloud and puppy and I set off to the river. The tide is out and the ground squelches under my boots and her tiny paws. She sniffs excitedly, her first experience of the smells of the shore. A lone egret is silhouetted against the shining mud. Old boats hang listlessly on muddy moorings. We turn our backs on the watery greyness and head home up a flooded lane. The sky is slate grey once more and the icy rain returns.


Morning becomes afternoon and time to feed donkeys, collect eggs and welcome muddy ewes into the yard for tea. Their time is getting near now, all neatly dagged, we eye each girl carefully as they bustle and shove to get to their feast of grain and malt shreds. The big shed is ready for the first lambs; pens built, nursery area strawed out, hay racks in place. They have been taking refuge in here already during the huge gales and may well have to again if the storms return.

Tomorrow the farrier will come to trim the donkey’s feet and check any problems caused by standing on wet ground. These dear, gentle desert animals are not waterproof and their feet are more susceptible to wet than horse’s hooves. Even though their barn is large and airy, they kick the gate and get stir-crazy when the rain falls continuously for weeks on end. I know how they feel.


It’s so much more wearisome working in the yard against the elements, squelching through cloying mud wrapped in our waterproofs, rain obscuring vision, sliding down the hillside, heaving sacks of feed and armfuls of straw and hay against the howling wind to care for cold, wet, hungry animals. When the sun shines and the air is still we have a smile on our face even on the coldest days!

Satisfied that everyone is safe and fed for whatever the night has in store, we trudge home dreaming of a glass of wine and a comforting supper. Sausages, baked potatoes and cauliflower cheese seem the kindest meal today!

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Dec 19 2015

Miss Millicent Arrives


Millie joined us on Sunday November 1st., a day so unseasonably warm and sunny, we stopped with Mr Porter for lunch in a pub garden en route to Camborne to collect our new eight week old black Labrador puppy.
It’s fifteen years since we last had a puppy; Wellie was born in the spring of 2000, the year we struggled to restore the farmyard after the big flood of Christmas 1999. Daughter of our doughty sheep dog Meg, she was one of a litter of nine collie cross lurcher pups. A dear dog, she had a long, happy and eventful life until spring 2014.

In 2008 Mr Porter joined us, a skinny, frail eighteen-month old black lab with sticking out ribs and under developed muscles in his hind quarters. He was rescued by the charity Labrador Rescue Trust from a terrible home where he had been given no exercise and had been kept in a crate without food or water.


Slowly with love, food and gentle exercise he has grown into a big, loving, funny, boisterous fellow.


Next came Sam, also a rescue dog. This time we were not so successful. Sam had been so cruelly treated he was not going to learn to trust us or anyone else nor was he to settle happily with Mr P whom he bullied relentlessly. Despite a professional dog training course in Cumbria he continued to chase our sheep. He frightened our grandchildren and finally, he turned on me. Devastated we had to return him to Lab Rescue. The charity reassured us that we were not at fault and that, sadly, sometimes the early cruelty is so unimaginably bad and the damage therefore so deep seated that it cannot be overcome by any amount of love and patience. Poor dog.


Next came the beloved Barney, a funny yellow Labrador, also a rescue dog belonging to a dear friend of ours. He joined us when our friend became too ill to keep him. Mr Porter adored Barney and they were like two old companions running through the fields together then curling up in front of the fire. We had Barney for ten wonderful months until severe ill health got the better of him. He was eleven years old.

So once again Mr P was alone and, without wishing to anthropomorphise, he was without doubt, a very sad lonely dog. He needed a companion and so did we. So this time a new Labrador puppy it would be!


Labrador Retrievers are the descendants of St John’s Water Dogs used in the C19th by the fisherman of Newfoundland. Impressed by their agility in the water, the second Earl of Malmesbury brought the breed to England in 1830. It was as well he did because by the 1880’s the breed was nearly extinct due to a swingeing government tax on dog ownership resulting in many dogs being destroyed. However, thanks to the Earl, the breed flourished this side of the Atlantic. In order to avoid confusion with the huge indigenous Newfoundland dogs, they soon became known as Labrador Retrievers after the sea they had worked off the shores of Newfoundland.


These steady, gentle, intelligent, loving dogs have become one of most popular breeds in this country, recognised by the Kennel Club as early as 1916. They can be trained to help in so many ways; as guide dogs, assistance dogs, sniffer dogs and, of course, gun dogs. Their waterproof coats, webbed feet and rudder-like tails make them great swimmers and they can cover the ground very fast indeed reaching 12mph in 3 seconds! Labrador owners don’t need the gym! They have such soft mouths they can carry eggs without breaking them and retrieve birds without damage.


A new puppy is so different to taking on a rescue dog. Millie knows no right or wrong. She is not naughty, she simply doesn’t know what is good or not so good, safe or unsafe. It is entirely up to us and Mr Porter to show her how life is. We play our part and he plays his quite fascinatingly well. He is her hero. She watches his every move and copies him, for better or worse, regardless. Sometimes it is very funny indeed.

He has cheered up no end and plays with her for hours until he’s has had enough when he growls instruction to be left alone.

It is a joy to see her learn, but also a sobering reminder of the damage done to both Mr P and poor Sam by their terrible treatment as small innocent puppies. It takes me back to my previous life in psychotherapy and the heart rending similarity to the lifelong damage caused by the early experiences of badly neglected children. Bowlby’s Attachment theory applies just as well to animals as humans:
“No variables have more far-reaching effects on personality development than a child’s experiences within the family. Starting during his first months in his relation to both parents, he builds up working models of how attachment figures are likely to behave towards him in any of a variety of situations, and on all those models are based all his expectations, and therefore all his plans, for the rest of his life.” Bowlby (1973).
A sobering thought indeed.

So as we go to our family in Bath this Christmas Mr P will introduce Millie to his beloved “cousins”, a crazy, adorable Cocker spaniel and, yes, another rescue Labrador, a sweet gentle girl saved from a dreadful puppy farm by the R.S.P.C.A. and given a wonderful loving home by our daughter and her family. Millie’s socialisation will continue as she learns to play with other dogs, meet the children and doubtless try to chew the presents! We look forward to a happy, boisterous few days of huge family fun!

Happy Christmas everyone!!

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Nov 09 2015

Dartmouth Food Festival 2015

At the end of a gloriously sunny October it’s time for Dartmouth Food Festival once more but this year, as the crowds flock to the town, there is a completely new festival experience in store; Japan arrives!

In the past I have joined in the Festival fun in lots of small ways; volunteering at the Information tent, skivvying for celebrity chefs in Kitchen Theatres, running errands for stall holders. Once I was even interviewed by the famous Matthew Forte about the merits of our Whiteface Dartmoor lamb! But this year is very different; I simply go to watch and learn. Six months ago our son, Tom, and his business partner, Noriko Kawamura, came over from Japan to help with lambing, huge fun for us and a steep learning curve for them! None of us had thoughts of the Food Festival. But you can never tell where a chance meeting and a cup of coffee may lead! Nolly is a talented and experienced cook so I thought it would be fun to introduce her to my friends, Holly and David Jones, owners of the terrific Manna from Devon Cookery School in Kingswear, South Devon. David was Food Festival Chairman for many years and it is David and Holly who are responsible for the amazing success and growth of the festival. Coffee enjoyed, contact made, lambing skills accomplished, Tom and Nolly flew back to Toyota. Emails were exchanged; ideas and photos flew across the world, plans evolved. Tom contacted us and said he and Nolly would be over for the Festival. He mailed again, he’d be bringing a farmer friend as well; then again, there would be several colleagues from the Smiles Tokyo Restaurant chain. Another e mail, the Katsuobushi man and his daughter would be coming too, oh, and a photographer and his girlfriend; Japan was on its way. The festival began on Friday and the first sushi workshop had already sold out weeks before, Saturday’s too. Nolly taught everyone to make Temari Sushi: small spoonful’s of sushi rice are squeezed and shaped into a ball and decorated with all sorts of toppings. In Japan Temari sushi is made for the Girls Festival in March as a special supper treat. In the past dampened cloth was used to shape the balls but cling film is quicker and less messy. The rice balls are traditionally topped with raw fish but this time Nolly used smoked salmon, sweet corn, prawns, mange tout, nori or thinly fried Japanese omelette. There are no end of possibilities. The Cookery Theatre on Saturday proved to be a huge crowd pleaser too. Taizo Inaba, the Katsuobushi man held centre stage as Tom translated the story of bonito sentence by sentence! Taizo runs a wholesale company in Harumi, the Katsuobushi district of Tokyo near the famous Tsukiji fish market. He is one of the top traders in Japan and reputed to have a specialist eye for the fish; he can tell just by looking at a hard piece of dried, cured katsuobushi or bonito how the fish died and whether it suffered in trawler nets. He can tell when it was caught and how and whether or not it has been frozen. Fish that suffer in the trawler nets don’t taste good just as animals stressed at the abattoir release adrenalin which adversely affects the quality of the meat. Ninety nine percent of tuna is caught in trawler nets but Taizo will only buy line caught fish.

For thirty five years he has bought from the family of Makoto Miyashita who prepare the katsuobushi. First the fish is filleted, boiled and boned, then dried over a wood fire. Next the outer burnt layer is removed and the fish is reshaped. It is dried for three months coated, rather like cheese, in a layer of mould to prevent bacteria. The whole process takes six months. The finished dried bonito looks more like a piece of wood than a fish! A grater rather like a wood plane is used to grate the hardened blocks of fish into delicious flakes which can be used as a garnish on many dishes. But more importantly it is the essential ingredient in the famous Japanese stock, Dashi, the building block of Japanese cooking which forms the base of so many recipes including the ubiquitous miso soup.

Dashi has been popular since the Edo period in Japan (1603-1868) when top quality konbu seaweed from Osaka and dried bonito from Tokyo first became available right across the country. The market stall run by the Smiles team looked wonderful too. They did a roaring trade each day but Sunday was amazing. People flocked to buy the ingredients they had learnt about in the workshops and demonstration on the previous days and everything sold out!

Sunday evening was time for a party at home to celebrate all the hard work that had led to the huge success of the weekend and the wonderful warm and enthusiastic welcome Japan had been given at the Festival! We all sat down around a huge table eating a fusion of English, French and Italian food! I cooked Orvieto chicken followed by Tarte au Pomme and finished with all sorts of European cheese. Tom’s head spun as he translated for the exhausted Japanese! All in all it was a tremendous weekend!

Have a look at the slide show!

slide show from Paul Vincent on Vimeo.

Temari Sushi

2 cups of sushi rice

1/3 cup rice vinegar

2tbsp sugar

2tsp sea salt

2tbsp lemon juice (optional)

Toppings of your choice:

e.g. Smoked salmon, Raw fish, Sweetcorn, Omelette, Nori (dried seaweed)

Rinse the rice thoroughly in a sieve under running water. Put the rice into a heavy saucepan, cover with water, put a tight fitting lid on the pan and bring to the boil. Turn down immediately and simmer gently until the water is absorbed. Remove from the heat and allow the rice to stand for at least 5 minutes. Meanwhile dissolve the sugar and salt in the vinegar over a gentle heat. Put the freshly boiled rice into a bowl. In Japan this is always a wooden bowl. Gently stir the vinegar mixture into the rice with a wooden spatula being careful not to crush the rice grains. Fan the rice with a Japanese rice fan or a piece of cardboard! Put a piece of cling film in the palm of your hand and place your sushi topping in the centre. Now place a golf-ball size amount of rice on top and squeeze gently into a ball. Remove the cling film and there is your Temari Sushi ball. Serve with a tiny dab of wasabi (remember it’s very strong!) and a dash of soy sauce. Delicious! Soy Sauce: Soy sauce is made from the fermented paste of boiled soya beans mixed with grain, either barley or wheat, and salt. It originated in China in the 2nd century BC and was brought to Japan by Buddhist monks in C7th.

Here is soy sauce being made by the traditional manufacturer, Yamoroku on the island of Shodoshima in the Inland Sea of southern Japan.

Dashi

A 6 inch/15cm length of dried Konbu seaweed

A handful of dried bonito shavings ( katsuobushi)

Place the konbu in a saucepan with 2 cups (500ml) cold water. Bring almost to the boil, remove the seaweed and throw in the dried bonito shavings; simmer for 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it stand for a further 8 minutes. Strain, allow to cool and store in the fridge. Use within a couple of days.

Miso Soup

Heat 300ml of dashi in a medium sized saucepan and bring slowly to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer for five minutes. Whisk in 2 ½ tbsp. good quality Miso.

Miso is made from fermented soya beans. In Japan there are many different sorts of miso but here in the UK we must make do with what we can get. Avoid fancy flavourings and go for the most basic, if possible pure soya bean. Miso soup can have any number of things added to it; tofu, tiny mushrooms, potato matchsticks, dried wakame (seaweed). The possibilities are endless; experiment and enjoy this delicious traditional Japanese soup!

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Oct 08 2015

Bryher-Isles of Scilly

September on Bryher from Paul Vincent on Vimeo.

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Aug 31 2015

Plums Plums Plums!


As torrential rain washes away the last remnants of summer so the remains of this years’ bumper crop of plums moulder and fall to the ground. But not before we have managed to gather bucket loads. It has been a wonderful year for all fruit in the garden despite the weather and the plums have been no exception. The orchard overflowed with the unique Dit’sum plum, boughs weighed down to the ground by the prolific harvest. Soaked grandchildren staggered into the kitchen with load after load as I looked on bewildered wondering what I could find to do with such a bounteous crop.

Years go by with no plums: a cold spring destroys the blossom, early rain rots the unripe fruit, silver leaf disease rampages through the orchard attacking tree after tree. Then once in a while we are overwhelmed by pounds and pounds of beautiful reddish purple fruit.

The plum as we know it today, prunus Rosaceae domestica, has been growing across Europe and Asia, Syria and Iraq, since before Roman times. Plum stones have been found in the ancient tombs of Damascus and in the 3.400 year old tomb of Kha, Egytian architect of Thebes. Pliny talks of “ingens turba prunorum”; great crowds of plums in Roman orchards. The mischievous Roman satirist and poet, Marcus Valerious Martialis (38-104 AD), wrote of plums as “frigida sunt, laxant, multum prosunt tibi pruna”; “Plums are cold, relaxing to the stomach and very good for you!” We all remember those school prunes and custard!

In the middle Ages we hear of the dark damask plums of Tours and Brignoles in France, for-runners of the famous Agen prune, and the bittersweet prunus salicina from Japan introduced to the United States in the late nineteenth century, a small fruit, delicious raw and used in sweet sour pickles as well as Sumomo Shu, a plum liqueur. In his 1949 book “Plums of England” H.V. Taylor cites 26 varieties which, according to John Rogers, a London Nurseryman, formerly of the Royal gardens, are the most “esteemed varieties grown in the gardens in 1834”. Among those listed are the greengage, common damson, and the red and white Magnum Bonham. The varieties of plum are legion.

Then there is, of course, our famous Victoria plum similar in appearance to the Dit’sum Ploughman though not as delicious and definitely not regarded with delight by Jane Grigson who describes it as “the apotheosis of a long reign in a flood of bland boring plums. Poor Victoria. She began life in 1840, a stray seedling found in Sussex and introduced by a nurseryman in Brixton……Victoria’s are for plums and custard, that crowning moment of the school, hospital, prison and boarding house midday meal” She continues that Mr Bird invented his custard powder around the same time “a Pooteresque menage a trois” of plum, nurseryman and custard inventor! I cannot agree that Victorias are quite that bad but there is no doubt our own Dit’sum plum has a superior flavour!

But what is the origin of this very local Dit’sum Ploughman plum growing only in Dittisham on the banks of the river Dart in South Devon? As I dug deeper into numerous books and the internet the answer became more and more obscure. Village myth or rumour has it that a German ship was wrecked off the coast near the mouth of the river carrying a cargo of trees or, maybe, prunes. Washed up on the village quay, barrels of prunes or maybe trees were collected by the villagers. This may be why the plums are also said to be related to the German “fluegal” plum. Interestingly the trees are raised from suckers and not grafted or budded which may be why they became unique to the valley. There is no doubt that the village plum crop was once prolific and the plums were sold in Brixham, Paignton and Torquay taken from the village by donkey cart and ferry across the river.


The plum was registered at Brogdale, home of the National Fruit Collection in 1949. They were kind enough to send me the limited information they have on record:
“Thank you for your enquiry on the Ditsum plum (listed as Dittisham Ploughman in the National Fruit Collection). There are currently 325 varieties of plum in our Collection, of which we maintain two trees of each. The majority of the information we keep on file for the different varieties relates to tree and fruit characteristics which helps for comparing and identifying varieties. For example, the notes on the Dittisham Ploughman fruit include: Season: early to mid-August Size: medium to large Shape: oval-oblong, slightly unequal sides, slightly flattened on suture; slightly tapering to base, slightly flattened at base, standing; slightly tapering to apex, slightly flattened at apex, not standing. Stalk: medium to medium long, 11-16mm Av.15mm; medium to slender, hairy, fairly conspicuous; inserted in a medium to deep cavity Flavour: sub acid; moderately sweet; little rich”

There is no doubt that, whatever their mysterious origin, they are beautiful plums. They have an excellent flavour straight from the tree and great setting quality for jams, jellies and puddings.

Delicious recipes abound. I will be trying Josceline Dimbleby’s Plums in Red Wine Syrup; sounds so simple and delicious. Simply stone the plums then make syrup of sugar, red wine and the juice of an orange and a lemon. Pour the thick syrup over the plums and leave to stand for a few hours. Serve with cream. And I love the sound of Nigel Slater’s Plum Crisp, a sort of cinnamon plum crumble but with“rubble” of breadcrumbs and butter to make the crispy topping. Some of my frozen plums will certainly be transformed into this on cold winter days to come.

Povidle


I have already made some of this year’s glut into an East European soft plum jam similar to fruit cheese called “Povidle”. The recipe is remarkably similar to the plum jam recipe made with Orlean or Magnum-Bonham plums in my 1880 edition of Mrs Beeton.

Stone and chop 2kg of purple plums. Layer the plums in a preserving pan with1kg of sugar.

Cover with a cloth and leave for a few hours until the juices start to run. Then bring the mixture gently to the boil, stirring until the sugar is melted. Simmer for 1 to 2 hours stirring occasionally until thick and dark.

Ladle into hot sterilised jars and seal in the usual way. The jam can be eaten immediately but improves with keeping.

Plum Jelly


Stone and chop the plums. Put in a preserving pan and add a little water not quite covering the fruit. Bring to the boil, then simmer till the fruit is cooked and breaking up. Tip the fruit puree into a jelly bag and allow it to strain overnight. I use a piece of muslin on an up-turned stool! Do not be tempted to speed up the process by pressing the fruit; this will result in cloudy jelly!


Tip the red juice into a measuring jug and allow 500ml of fruit to 500g of sugar (i.e. equal amounts) Now return both to the pan and boil to setting point. A good way to test for setting is to spoon a tiny bit of the jelly onto a saucer and put it in the ice box of the fridge for a few minutes till chilled. If when you touch it, it wrinkles across the top, your jelly is ready to put into hot sterilised pots.

Plum Chutney: The Constance Spry Cookery Book 1964

2lbs plums                          1tsp salt      1/2lb apples
2 cloves crushed garlic     1lb seedless raisins chillies, fresh or dried
2 chopped onions              ½ oz. allspice         1&1/2 pts vinegar
½ oz. ginger                       1&1/2 lb brown sugar

Stone and chop plums. Chop raisins. Cook plums, apples, raisins, onion, garlic, chillies, allspice, and salt in 1 pint of the vinegar until soft. Pour the remaining vinegar over the sugar and put in a warm place to dissolve. When the fruit is cooked add the sugar and vinegar and continue cooking in an uncovered pan until thick and dark. Put into hot sterilised jars and cover. Although you can eat the chutney right away it does improve with keeping.

Bottled plums


Prick the plums all over with a cocktail stick and pack into Kilner jars. Half cover with a spirit of your choice. Elisabeth David suggests cherry brandy and a vanilla “bean” (sic) for “an extraordinary haunting scent”. This year I decided to go east European again and try vodka. Top up and cover the plums with strong sugar syrup made with equal quantities of sugar and water. Seal the jars and put away in a dark cupboard for a couple of months.

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Jul 22 2015

High Summer and Favourite Cookbooks

The lambs are nearly as big as the ewes now. Big sturdy boys and girls graze beside their mothers, occasionally toppling them, as they push for the last drops of milk. Soon we will bring them all down from the hill into the yard to be sprayed for fly strike, the curse of these warm, wet summer days. The lambs will go up to Phil to be shorn. Then, once separated, everyone will be moved to pastures new.The ewes will Baa for a little while then settle to a quiet life in the orchard restoring their strength after raising their young. The youngsters will learn the independent life.

Big Fred will stay with us for one more year. He has produced some very promising ram lambs with really good conformation, fine future tupps, we hope. They will mature through the winter and go to next year’s Annual Whiteface Show and Sale in Exeter. Young Gilbert, born last year, has also turned into a sturdy chap and will go to this year’s sale. He is too closely related to last year’s yearlings; his sisters and cousins.

They will join the breeding stock in the autumn replacing the old cull ewes too old to lamb again. Thus the flock and the bloodline are replenished and the cycle continues.

Larry, the old pet Wether, is still with us, a useful summer companion to the rams. At present he is with Fred and Gilbert and the donkeys. They have a surprise new companion, Claude, Paul calls him, a lost racing pigeon who potters around happily amongst them all; a funny little group!

As soft rain and warm days turn the garden into a wonderful patchwork of colour and chaos I struggle to keep up with everything.

Harvest has begun. This year the fruit cage has yielded its best. The strawberries are finished, eaten hand to mouth. Huge bowls of raspberries have made their way to the deep freeze and I’m overwhelmed with red, white and black currants and huge gooseberries both red and green. Jams and jellies are in the larder and still more fruit must be picked.

Recently I was given a wonderful opportunity to return to my culinary roots. I received an invitation from Tom Jaine, he of The Good Food Guide, Carved Angel in Dartmouth and The Hole in the Wall in Bath. He asked me to take part in the formation of new website called 1000 Cookbooks. I simply had to pick my ten favourite cookbooks explaining my choice. What a pleasure, what could be more fun. Of course I have no idea if I or my chosen books will be included in the final selection, but I had such a good time making my choice. I have a large collection of cookery books and they all came off the shelves as I pondered for days exploring forgotten tomes and returning again and again to my old favourites. My battered and broken Elisabeth David, the wonderful Jane Grigson and so on.
Here is my introduction followed by my choice:
For the last thirty three years I have lived and worked on a small farm in South Devon where I have had the opportunity to indulge my love of cooking and good food. Over the years we have kept sheep and Dexter cattle, produced Christmas turkeys and free range chickens and eggs. We still breed Whiteface Dartmoor sheep and grow all our own fruit and vegetables. I know the provenance of almost all we eat.
I grew up in post war London and still remember my ration book. In the 1960’s I was sent to Constance Spry’s Winkfield Place Cordon Bleu Cookery School. I went reluctantly, I had other ideas. But thanks to Rosemary Hume my life- long passion for cooking started here. Next came Nick’s Diner in Fulham where I worked under the expert eye of Kem Bennet, late of George Perry Smith’s famous Hole in the Wall in Bath. My culinary journey had begun.
For the last ten years I have kept an on line diary of Food and Farming. In a fast moving world I have watched eating habits change, old skills disappear and new ones take their place.
My Choice:

French Provincial Cooking: Elizabeth David 1960 Penguin Books Ltd

My old, browned, broken paperback copy of French Provincial Cooking is, without doubt, my favourite cookbook of all; my introduction to a new world of cooking and eating. Elisabeth David books were a breath of fresh air after the austerity of rationing and the depressing food of the post war years. In the mid ‘60’s the teenage me cooked at Nick’s Diner in Fulham under the expert eye of Kem Bennet, late of George Perry Smith’s famous Hole in the Wall in Bath. When I wasn’t learning to cook I was reading Elisabeth David. How perfect an introduction to the world of food!
The Constance Spry Cookery Book: Constance Spry & Rosemary Hume 1956 (1964) J M Dent & Sons Ltd
I have to put Rosemary Hume second because it was she who taught a very reluctant teenage student at Winkfield Place that cooking was a pleasure, an adventure, fun and not a chore. I still find myself returning to the pages of this old friend.
Jane Grigson’s Fruit Book: Michael Joseph Ltd 1982
I find Jane Grigson’s knowledge and style captivating. I have learnt not only about cooking fruit from this book but also a huge amount of history in general. For this reason I love all her books; so much more than just recipe books, they are a pleasure simply to sit and read with a glass of wine!
The Cooking of South West France: Paula Wolfert Dorling Kindersley London 1987
In her introduction Paula Wolfert sums up for me why I love this practical , hands-on book and find myself returning to it time and time again: “The idea is that you too can possess the South-West not merely in words, but in that most tangible and sensuous necessity of people’s lives: the wonderful food they eat” : a truly delicious book!
Nose to Tail Eating: Fergus Henderson Bloomsbury Publishing 1999
A classic, of course! Anthony Bourdain’s Introduction sums it up. I particularly like the notion that “ it would be disingenuous to the animal not to make the most of it” For several years I kept pigs and, with Fergus Henderson’s help, I have been lucky enough to learn from this wonderful book how to use absolutely all the deliciousness from nose to tail of the pork we produced!
The Cook and the Gardener: Amanda Hesser Absolute Press 2004
This is a book as much about the growing of food as the cooking of it. It is about the French countryside, delicious straight forward food and Amanda Hesser’s amusing relationship with the gardener, Monsieur Milbert. She must travel a long journey to persuade him to trust his beloved produce to the hands of a young cook from a foreign land.
The River Cottage Meat Book: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall: Hodder & Stoughton
A gift from a friend, this book has become a textbook for me. Living in South Devon on a small farm over the years we have been producing not only our own fruit and vegetables but also our own meat: turkeys, free range chickens, Whiteface Dartmoor lamb and rare breed pork. Here is a book that talks about the provenance of food, of the livestock, the food producers as well as a wealth of in depth cookery information and terrific recipes.
Japanese Farm Food: Nancy Singleton Hachisu Andrew McMeel Publishing
At last, a beautiful, informative exciting book about Japanese food in English! Nancy Singleton Hachisu left her native California twenty five years ago to travel to Japan to learn about the food. She never returned, instead she married a Japanese farmer, a man as passionate about food as herself. Here is the story of their life on a farm in northern Japan, a book about the wonder and demystification of Japanese food. Beautifully written and full of wonderful photographs this book has a special place in my heart: I have Japanese family and have been lucky enough to travel extensively in Japan and now, at last, Nancy Singleton Hachisu has made the food accessible to me as well!

Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook: Alice Waters Random House Inc NY 1982
A list of my favourite cookbooks would not be complete without Alice Waters. Her influence on good food from Berkeley, California right across the USA and her support for the Slow Food Movement across the world is legendary. I count myself very fortunate to have had the opportunity to eat at Chez Panisse where they “try to interfere as little as possible with the transition of good and pure ingredients from their origins to the table…” a notion reflected so well in this book.
Nigel Slater’s Kitchen Diaries: Fourth Estate 2012
All the books I have chosen live on my kitchen shelves and are well thumbed and oft used so I cannot imagine the list complete without Nigel Slater, one of my favourite food writers. I frequently find myself reaching for his Diaries, too tired to think after a particularly busy farming day. He never lets me down!
We’ll that is my choice; we shall see if I am selected. Meanwhile back to the donkeys to clean the stable and, of course, pick more fruit!

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Jun 24 2015

Summer at Last

Soft rain is falling, the perfect pick-me-up for a sun scorched garden. Flowers turn their heads upwards drinking in the refreshing draft. Petals glisten, trees drip, tiny spiders’ webs catch the rain drops on the grass shedding a strange haze across the lawn.

The first strawberries glisten in the fruit cage, sweet peas waft scent across the vegetable garden and roses are bursting into flower. Blue geraniums cascade beneath the huge Embothrium as its scarlet flowers fade at last.

Buddleia Alternafolia frames Bridget McCrum’s little bird as it sits on its high altar above the pond. Water lilies attract darting damsel flies. The garden glows.

Last weekend we opened once more for the National Garden Scheme. Dry, sunny weather brought the crowds; “Yellow Book people”, I call them, all gardeners, knowledgeable, interested and interesting. Some local and some on holiday from far flung places. The same questions over and over. “What is that wonderful scarlet tree? “Is that Astrantia in the border, what variety? “What sort of Buddleia is that?” “How long have you been here, is this a frost pocket”? “How much help do you have”?…………………..!

I love it all and suddenly I see the garden afresh after all the hard work. For months my eyes have only seen those things which still needed attention!
Teas were very popular again this year in our newly refurbished “Tea Hut”; more space at last and no leaking roof! Now that the wonderful Anchorstone Café has also taken over the Sharpham Café they had no time to bake me hundreds of scones this year, so cream teas were off. Instead they put me in touch with “Te Cake” a new little bakery in Harbertonford. Their cakes were delicious and flew off the shelf!
I wish them well, they deserve it! www.tecake.co.uk .

In just two afternoons we were able to send off nearly £1000 to the NGS Nursing Charities. All that hard work had really paid off once more.
By Sunday evening we were exhausted and collapsed with our dear friends from France, who had come to help. We restored ourselves with a large glass of French wine and a free range spatchcocked chicken I had prepared the day before accompanied by a big salad and Jersey Royal potatoes followed by fresh fruit and English cheeses. We all slept well!

Next day Michael and Evelyne left for home in Brittany and it was time for shearing. As the sun beat down it was a joy to see the great heavy fleeces fall from the ewes under Phil’s expert shears. The girls shook with relief as he finished, wriggling as they jumped to their feet, lighter and leaner. They raced from the yard onto the fresh new grass of Sunday Orchard, a big steep east facing field, each ewe calling and searching for her now sturdy lamb. The chaos after shearing always makes me smile as the lambs take a while to recognise their new slim-line mothers.

Clover carpets the track up to the top fields as I walk the dogs through the soft rain.

Long wet grass glistens their coats and brushes against my now soaking trousers. Wild roses and huge plates of Elderflower blossom scent the hedgerows. Honeysuckle stealthily clambers up amongst the prickly twigs and shiny leaves of hawthorn.

Tiny green sloes and crab apples hide deep in the bushes. Bracken threatens to engulf the top of the orchard and the grass is waist high. Now that the wild flowers have finally seeded, Gheorghe will start cutting through the huge swathes with the mighty mower called “The Doctor”, an awesome great machine capable of tackling such steep ground unsuitable for a tractor. Then the sheep will be allowed in to finish his job fertilising the ground for another year. The cycle continues.
Summer has arrived.

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