Aug 26 2021

Tumbling into Autumn

Autumn creeps in

Is autumn surreptitiously creeping in already? Today Millie and I climbed the hill to the top fields under a watery sun, struggling to make its self seen in a drizzly grey sky. Then suddenly a brief burst of warm sunshine, hood down, waterproof coat off, hurrah. A cohort of geese flashed across the sky like the Red Arrows! Dartmoor appeared briefly in the distance, the river below.

But it didn’t last of course. A ferocious wind whirled up from the valley, trees bent double, coat on again. Donkeys stayed in their barn munching hay. Chickens sheltered under trees. Only the sheep continued to graze peacefully, raindrops bouncing off lanolin. As we descended Millie danced in muddy puddles and launched herself into the stream, paws akimbo: Labradors love water. We reached home soaking wet once more!

It’s August, of course!

The Boat Float

And Devon is full to the brim with visitors! Many more this year than usual as covid restricts traveling to hotter climes. So hundreds have come West instead, flocking to the local towns seeking fun and relaxation. Alas the weather lets them down. Fully booked cafes and restaurants struggle with acute staff shortages, traffic jams abound and beaches are brimming with hopeful chilly surfers: all so disappointing.

The lanes narrow!

But something else is different this year. Although we are only half way through the big holiday month there is definitely a feel of autumn in the air. The trees have that tired dark green look they take on just before the leaves begin to turn. The lanes are already narrowing more than usual as hedgerows, so abundant, crowd across the way, arching overhead. Huge fronds of bracken, tall as trees, wave in the wind. Buzzards are already whirling overhead, filling the air with their autumn cries. Wild damsons cover the ground. The fruit cage is empty and the vegetable garden a soggy disaster! The whole garden is running amok!

Every year I so enjoy my little harvest, gathering fruit and vegetables, some for now and some to store for winter treats.  But alas, this year no abundant crops to stash away in the deep freeze, barely enough for now. Draught and deluge, scorching sun followed by biting cold winds have all taken their toll over the summer months. Only the tomatoes and green peppers, safe in the greenhouse, have come up trumps!

So I find myself moving towards autumn dishes, thinking of future meals, turning, as I always do, to cooking for comfort! Yesterday it was those wonderful “Old English” sausages from the Dartmouth Butcher, Boulangère potatoes and spiced lentils with a handful of Cavalo Nero from the sparse veg garden.

“Old English”

What shall we have today? Will it be Beouf Stroganoff or a quick ratatouille pasta, I wonder.

For the Stroganoff I will gently cook shallots and garlic in butter and a little oil till soft before adding a big handful of sliced mushrooms. A quick sauté then I remove them from the pan. I add a little more oil and let the pan get really hot; in goes the finely sliced steak. A quick turn around then off the heat and back go the mushrooms. I quickly stir it all together before adding salt and pepper and a good dollop of crème fraiche and chopped parsley. All cooked in minutes!

I do love making ratatouille from my own vegetables, though no aubergine this year, but fortunately I found a beautiful specimen in our village shop!

Ratatouille

I have learnt, at last, that the secret with ratatouille is to start by cooking the peppers, aubergine and courgette until just al dente. Then I take them from the pan while I soften first the onion, garlic and then add the chopped tomatoes. Once the tomatoes have melted a little, I return the peppers etc to the pan and cook gently for a few minutes. Doing it this way round prevents the vegetables all going to a mush!! All I need to add is a little salt and pepper and a big handful of chopped basil; delicious!

John Dory

Living near the sea we are so fortunate to have wonderful fish delivered literally to our doorstep. John comes by each Monday at lunchtime in his van packed full of the weekend catch.  Such a wonderful choice; it may be John Dory or scallops or lemon sole, it’s always delicious.  Every Friday I queue to buy more fish from Mark’s stall in Dartmouth Market where there is an even bigger array of the previous nights’ catch!

Tuna with Salad Nicoise

Sometimes I find enough in the fridge to make a quiche of sorts; rarely the classic Quiche Lorraine but delicious none the less! Despite the travel restrictions of the last eighteen months, I still have some frozen pastry left in the deep freeze, bought from a French supermarché in Brittany! By chance it fits my metal flan ring perfectly! When I run out, I will resort to ready made pastry from my local supermarket!

Quiche

The filling is random: bacon or ham, maybe, with mushrooms and shallot. Or perhaps I will use shrimps, prawns or some left-over cooked fish and a big handful of quickly cooked, really well drained spinach. It depends what I have in the fridge. The part that doesn’t change is the custard. I whisk two eggs into a mixture of milk and cream together with salt and pepper and some grated cheese. I pour this into the pastry case over the filling. I sprinkle a bit more cheese over the top then put it in a hot oven until the custard is golden and set and the pastry lovely and crisp. We eat it with a green salad.

So as the days seem to get prematurely shorter my thoughts turn once more to gathering whatever I can find and taming the chaos which is my garden………… while others relax!

Bliss!

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Jul 01 2021

Sunshine and Cream Tea !

One thirty on a cloudy Friday afternoon and already we hear a rumble of cars gliding past the farmyard to the car park in a big field beyond. By two o’clock a steady stream of people begin to arrive in the garden. More and more keep coming all afternoon! Saturday and Sunday are the same, but we even have sunshine then too!  

We have been opening our garden for the National Garden Scheme Nursing Charities for many years now, but never have we had so many delightful, happy visitors: two hundred people in just three afternoons! Everyone wanted to chat, to ask questions about the garden, the house. I explained over and over again that there had been no garden when we arrived, that the pond had been a tractor shed and the flat lawn covered by three huge derelict greenhouses. They looked again in surprise!

I told how we had cleared and dug, dug and chopped, cleared and dug, and how, slowly the basic structure of a garden, long forgotten, began to emerge. Someone, sometime had cherished it. Down fell the derelict old green houses, broken glass threatening to chop off our heads.

Down came the great tin tractor shed, in went the pond, out went the fencing made of gas stove and corrugated tin. In went banks of shrubs, out went broken outhouses and bindweed and dead trees. In went roses and camellias, beech hedges. Up popped swathes of bulbs and wild flowers. Stifled for years beneath the undergrowth, they took their chance to break free at last. Slowly, slowly as we worked, a garden began to re-emerge in the valley.

As usual my dear friends helped each day with the cream teas: no plates or cups and saucers this Covid year! Instead, our local Anchorestone Café provided stylish little boxes each taking a tiny pot of jam, a scone and a scoop of clotted cream, the latter so generously donated by Hallets the Bakers and the Dartmouth Dairy.

It’s been two years now since we last opened. So much water has passed under the bridge since then! Covid 19 has changed our lives. Lockdown followed by lockdown, self-isolation, separation from friends and family, fear of infection, strict Government rules, so strictly enforced, contradictory news bulletins; all have limited our lives in a way few of us could have ever imagined or have ever experienced.

Then suddenly a few weeks ago we learnt that we could indeed go ahead and open to visitors once again. The race was on! But the weather sadly hadn’t heard the good news! It has been the strangest spring. High winds roared through the valley bending trees and flattening shrubs.  Chickens cowered in the farmyard and donkeys voted with their feet to stay in their big shed. The garden was in limbo.

We longed for rain for weeks. But as the saying goes “be careful what you wish for”: suddenly the heavens opened! Water ran off the parched ground trickling through grass, pouring down hill until it reached the stream in the valley below. The air temperature remained far below the seasonal norm. I planted out beans, peas, cavalo nero, sweet corn, courgette, even late sweet peas. They all stood still!

The sun crept out now and then from beneath black cloud, roses began to offer a few flowers while rhododendrons hung on in full bloom in June! The big buddleia alternafolia slowly began to turn blue.  The huge embothrium was just as tardy, gradually putting on its magnificent glow of scarlet weeks later than usual. It is only just beginning to fade now as we approach July. A strange year indeed.

Meanwhile Paul built a magnificent new bridge across the stream.

The days raced by. Eva and I weeded and tided, potted and pruned. Gradually we brought some sort of order into the valley. But the wild flowers, still racing beguilingly along the banks had to stay.

The fields suddenly grew lush. Sheep grazed on the hill in the sun and the weekend arrived and was gone!

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May 22 2021

Changing Times

I’ve just found an old copy of Country Living Magazine February 1994 “How to Survive Redundancy, a second career”. My, that took me back a bit! There we are photographed climbing the hill, pitch forks in hand and dogs in tow, starting our new life.

We had already lived in our funny old house for a number of years when Thames Television lost its franchise to broadcast and Paul found himself, part of the team in charge of closing down technical operations and making so many people redundant: a painful process which was agonisingly slow. Months passed as transmission wound down until finally, he was able to write himself out of the script. He walked out of the studios after twenty-seven years in television: “Can I have your car keys, please, sir” and suddenly it was all over. It seems a life time away now.

Then at the very same time, the strangest thing happened: our farming neighbour, born in our house, decided to sell up and move away. Most of the land went to his relation, up the valley, in Devon farming tradition; brother’s wife’s sister’s husband, just a few minutes’ walk from us across the fields. But the relation didn’t want it all; he didn’t want the steep thirty something acres which had once belonged to our house or the large ugly 1970’s ramshackle farmyard. We pondered our options; not a very promising farming potential.

We bought two sheep, a couple of Dexter cows, a few chickens, some turkey poults and quite a few books.

It seems a long time ago now that we bought those first two sheep, two Jacob ewes, Phyllis and Madge, named after the previous owner’s Bridge partners!

I knew very little about sheep and it took me some time to understand that sheep speed and human speed are very different. I had no idea how to catch the two of them and rushed madly about the field finally grabbing poor Madge by the horns only to be taken downhill very fast on my stomach. As she protested at my inappropriate efforts my husband looked on quite unable to help, paralyzed with laughter! Oh how quickly I learnt to slow down and show respect.

We soon added a few more Jacobs to our little flock, two Suffolk crosses, then Hazel, another girl gifted to us and Maisy, a stout woman who had lived in someone’s back garden. She, like Hazel, was a bit confused about her identity until she joined a flock of something similar to herself. Those were the early days.

How things have changed. Gradually we built up a beautiful flock of pedigree Whiteface Dartmoor sheep and, I’m glad to say, a much more professional approach to animal husbandry.

But, most important of all, a lot of our success was due to our neighbouring farmers overwhelming kindness and generosity, sharing their knowledge, help and support.

In time our thriving little business breeding sheep, producing free range eggs, raising table birds for delivery every week and turkeys for Christmas grew. We began making up salad bags long before the supermarkets caught onto the idea. All this we delivered in our minute, elderly refrigerated van to a quickly growing list of regular customers. And soon we supplied local businesses, hotels and pubs with our eggs, lamb and chicken.

A summer visitor in a big queue in our village shop was heard to ask the sell by date of our eggs “About half an hour “replied a local wag. We knew we had arrived!

One day we were surprised to turn up on BBC Spotlight, the Devon TV News programme; it helped our sales no end. A little later the Weekend Times did a half page feature of us called “Farming for Fun”! Despite the terrific input of the Regional Director of The National Farmers Union, South West, the journalist clearly new little about farming and described us, rather disparagingly, as Hobby Farmers! Some things don’t change.

Our weeks followed a regular pattern. From Monday to Wednesday I worked for Plymouth University, ran my own Psychotherapy Practice in Totnes and provided Clinical Supervision for local NHS GP Counsellors.

Paul farmed.

On Thursday’s I joined him and began preparing the chickens he had plucked. I drew and trussed them then packed, weighed and labelled them. I took the orders, worked out the delivery route, wrote recipes to accompany them, picked salad and herbs from my polytunnel and made up the salad bags. I collected, graded, packed and labelled the eggs.

We were approved and regularly visited by Health and Safety, Trading Standards, Environmental Health, MAFF which preceded DEFRA and the “Egg Inspector” who always made me giggle, poor man. Fancy being called an Egg Inspector, but someone has to do it.….and Paul had, of course, done the appropriate training to be awarded a professional poultry slaughterman’s license; not so glamourous either!

On Friday and Saturday Paul did deliveries while I cleared up, cleaned and caught up with paper work. On Sunday we crawled to church, planned the new week ahead, fed the animals, (no one told them it was Sunday!), cooked supper and collapsed: some Hobby!!!

Then a few years later disaster struck. We went to tea with my ninety-six-year-old father on his birthday. We returned home in sunshine to find a very distressed cockerel running round the garden. Alas, our flock had been routed by a family of foxes. Only a handful survived.

Time to take stock; we closed our egg business and concentrated of our Whiteface flock which went from strength to strength. Paul became Chairman and then President of the Whiteface Sheep Breeders Association, not bad for a Cornishman in Devon on his second career!!

And so now, here we are again, starting another new chapter. As time moves on, we must reduce our workload so we can continue to concentrate on opening our garden for the National Garden Scheme. We’d been pondering our options for some time, feeling sad and reluctant to say goodbye to our girls. And then out of the blue came a wonderful compromise. We met Matt, a young man who has a small flock of his own Whiteface Dartmoors and is keen to get into sheep farming. He will rent our fields and buy our girls to add to his twenty or so, and they will all share grazing on our fields. In the autumn he will bring in his ram and next spring he will lamb in our yard. So the cycle will continue.

A perfect solution: we will still walk over the hills and enjoy our sheep but now they are his responsibility! How wonderful is that!

Our garden is open on June 11th, 12th & 13th. in aid of the NGS Nursing Charities. We are praying for just a little bit of sunshine!

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Mar 23 2021

At Last a Sign of Spring

Is it spring at last?

As each day passes the sun rises and sets a little higher above the hills and suddenly the valley is not in darkness. We see sunlight once more. Sun greets me in the morning now, as I watch Millie race round the garden before her breakfast. Birds sing. Indeed, they seem to be shouting for joy as they crowd the bird feeder. A pair of pheasants potter down for an early snack, hooting quietly as they clear the fallen seeds on the grass below. Hordes of fat pigeons patrol the garden.  A long bleak winter begins to drift away behind us.

And, after this long, lonely extraordinary year, we are told lockdown restrictions will gradually be lifted too. We will soon be allowed to see our friends and family again, travel a little further afield, eventually even have our hair cut! 

We will open our garden once more in June for the NGS to raise money for the nursing charities who have worked so very hard for us all over the last difficult months.

So as March marches onward, cherry trees are bursting into blossom, buds are swelling and the grass is starting to grow again. Fading snowdrops are replaced by a carpet of primroses. Camellias defy the frost, and everywhere daffodils and hellebores nod in the breeze. Sheep, horses and donkeys graze quietly on the hill. Nature seems to know nothing of this human pandemic. Time will heal.

march garden from Paul Vincent on Vimeo.

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Feb 20 2021

A Pause for Thought

It’s Groundhog Day: time stands still, time freezes, all is repetition, repetition. Is it just me or do the days seem to creep by as weeks fly past? What day is it today? Everything seems the same and yet completely different. Routine takes over my life. But how lucky am I to have space all around me. Millie dog and I walk to the top fields every day to feed the sheep. We climb the hills and look out over Dartmoor in the distance and the river below. We tend the donkeys and clean the stables. We feed our lockdown chickens, Avian Flu not Covid !  Sometimes there’s a little treat, friends walk by and we manage a quick chat, a bark, over the fence. Isolation, aloneness, no friends for a cuppa, a glass of wine or supper in the kitchen.

We wait, we hope, we try to be patient. Vaccinations are going well we’re told, then contradictions flood the media. We hang onto hope. That is all we can do. How will it all pan out? Only time will tell. We wait, we obey the rules, we isolate, we go on hoping.

And then the power cut: we lose everything. No WiFi, no internet, no phone, no contact with the outside world. No electricity, no heat, no light, no cooker, no hot water, no washing machine, none of the things we rely on and take so for granted day by day. I get back from the yard soaking wet, I can’t have a shower or wash my muddy clothes. I can’t prepare supper; I can’t send an email or call a friend. The house is cold and dark. All I can do is light the fire and wait.

A flurry of trucks arrive. Men in hard hats and red jackets jump out and scale the electricity pylons in the woods beyond our gate. Like trapeze artists, they swing from pole to pole high above the ground for hours until finally power is restored. They vanish as quickly as they appear.

It sets me thinking. How did our predecessors live their lives in days gone by in this tall, strange, narrow, remote, funny old house; a four-bedroom folly built by the Rector of Dittisham for his daughter in 1767? The deeds are lost so we know very little of its history but we do know that over the last two hundred and forty years it has belonged to churchman or farmers. The Reverend Francis Lyte lived here for a year or so before crossing the river to become the “Poet and Priest of Brixham”. I wonder if maybe he might even have written “Abide with Me” in this house! We’ll never know of course! All we do know is that the family from whom we bought it all those years ago had farmed here since 1922.

I heard on the radio the other day that someone somewhere has unearthed old records which show we are experiencing the highest rainfall since 1767, the year our house was built. As I watch our 21st century builders equipped with all the latest gear struggle to climb the scaffolding in howling winds and rain to mend our leaking roof and replace our rotten windows, I try to image the scene in the 18th century as men dug into the muddy Devon hillside in torrential rain toiling to build this Rector’s strange folly

Some folly indeed, down a muddy track almost a mile from a steep riverside village, it stands three storeys high at the head of a creek with ten windows, all at the front, looking east towards the River Dart. There were no other windows either on sides or back until the modern kitchen extension of 1820 was built. This was to conform to the Window Tax introduced in 1696 by William the Third to compensate for revenue lost through the clipping of coins. More than ten windows incurred a higher tax.

A well outside the basement kitchen was the only source of water and the privy was a long, cold walk from the backdoor.

A ford ran at the gate we are told and there was certainly no little shop in the village which was only to be reached on foot or by horse and cart. And Dartmouth was only accessible by water.  One token to modernity, if you can call it that, in this quirky house, were the coal grates. Very unusual for the time, they replaced the usual wood burning hearth. Coal barges unloaded their cargo at the head of the creek onto horse drawn carts just outside our gate, so coal was available to warm the two main rooms; so very modern in the eighteenth centuary. But I keep imagining just how hard and bleak life must have been

Dartmouth is still our nearest little town. A town with a an extraordinary history, it has managed to re-invent itself ina quite remarkable way, time and againacross the centuries. It sits at the mouth of the Dart, a river which rises five hundred and fifty metres above sea level on the acidic peat bogs high up on Dartmoor. Dartmouth perches at its mouth, a town with a history of ships and shipping and a story dominated by the sea. But it was not until 1823 that the town became accessible by land for wheeled vehicles, almost sixty years after our house was built. Up until that time only pack horses or ponies could manage the steep descent; the river was the highway to the town.

It was February 1982 when we arrived and our lives changed forever. We simply fell in love with this poor old battered farmhouse. On the day of completion we were early. We sat patiently on the grass pondering our future. In time an old tractor trundled up and our neighbouring farmer, handed over a key; I gazed at it in wonder, just one enormous, rusty, unused old key; the key to our new life.

Our arrival was, of course, eventful. First the removal lorry broke down on the way. And then, as I had predicted in several high decibel phone calls to the removal company, it was far too big to get down the narrow lane to the house. Everything had to be decanted unceremoniously into a small hired van in the middle of the village right outside the shop; a good place for everyone to get a look at the belongings and the people who had bought “Dorothy’s House”.

Death watch beetle, wet rot, dry rot and flourishing fungi meant we had no floor boards on which to arrange anything. All our belongings, everything but the most basic necessities, had to be stacked high in the farm dairy. They would remain there for the next nine months. We began to forget about them; things we had deemed so essential simply weren’t missed. As the months passed I soon learnt that black mould is permanent and green mould can be brushed off…..

The dairy, now a cosy study, was part of a cold north facing addition circa 1820. The deep slate shelves all around the room still remain. Each shelf has a gully which held a trickle of cold water that acted as the cooling system, keeping hams and cheese, milk and cream fresh; a nineteenth century “refrigerator”.

For months we all camped downstairs, sleeping on plastic covered mattresses. The children were ecstatic. They climbed around the house balancing precariously on the joists, exploring every corner and bagging a future bedroom each. They spent hours happily picking wet wallpaper off damp walls, they counted dead flies and compiled a scrap book of the amazing interior decoration. They recorded all details of yellow and orange staircase, pea green paneling in the little Georgian sitting room and the beautiful iron fireplace steeped in cream paint. They explored the overgrown garden and made camps in the orchard. They tramped across fields arriving home wet and muddy with happy exhausted dogs.

There was no hot water in the bathroom and the lavatory, perched above the kitchen extension of 1820, replaced the mounting block at the original backdoor which had enabled incumbent rector or farmer to lower himself onto his horse from on high! It was inclined to give those brave enough to use it, a fairly substantial cold shower when flushed. Fortunately there was another one upstairs which was less eccentric, but journeying to it meant balancing once more on those ceiling joists.

I loved the solid fuel Rayburn. It stood cream and battered in the corner of the old kitchen. It hadn’t been used for years but it was the only source of heat we had. All the chimneys were blocked up either deliberately or by years of nesting birds. So to cook our food, give us a little hot water and keep us warm, I set about bringing it back to life. I called the chimney sweep, scrubbed the old thing, bought some “nuts” to feed it and fired it up. If the wind was in the right direction it was a marvel. But, as the hills rise high behind the house, on grey days the smoke was returned unceremoniously down the chimney. I began to understand why it had been out of action for so long! It began to rule our mealtimes. Would it roar into life and cook lunch or would thick cloud, hanging heavy in the sky, make us wait till supper time for the fire to draw.

The old kitchen and pantry had no sink or drainage of any kind but a small modern breeze block scullery, housed a metal sink whose waste pipe ended in mid-air. Water flowed first onto the floor then trickled optimistically towards a little drain hole: sometimes it disappeared, sometimes it didn’t. It was a long, wet walk from cooker to sink with a saucepan. Cooking was a challenge.

In November the builders arrived and the restoration process began. The pantry vanished together with the waterfall lavatory. Suddenly a large space appeared which would in time become the new kitchen. Ceilings fell down, new ones replaced them. Heating and plumbing appeared; water, no water, heating, no heating.  And, of course, things got so much worse before they got better.

Christmas approached and after much discussion we decided to make a valiant effort and celebrate in the shell which was to be our home. We hung a curtain across the bathroom door for Granny who whistled to indicate her occupancy; new floor boards in place made her journey slightly less hazardous. 

Rubble was barrowed out of the kitchen; the floor was leveled. A shiny new sink appeared then taps, hot water. What more did I need! A Christmas tree acted as camouflage and a few decorations lit up the occasion.

The dear old Rayburn came up trumps and cooked a turkey to perfection. Chairs and table were pulled out of storage and dusted down. Table laid, crackers in place and friends and family sat down together for the traditional festive feast in somewhat unconventional surroundings.  My father gave me a long hard look and asked if I thought we had been altogether wise. I just smiled.

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Jan 06 2021

New Year’s Day

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We woke on New Year’s morning to a frost-white sparkling world. Tiny clouds bathed in pink sunlight scudded across a turquoise sky.  An omen for a better year, I pondered hopefully, as I struggled out into the frozen landscape. Such a contrast to the recent squelch of months of mud suddenly replaced by the crunch of icy grass beneath my feet. 

A quick breakfast and Millie and I trudged up as usual to the top fields to check the sheep. Dear tough Dartmoor girls grazed quietly on frozen pasture melting quickly in the intermittent sun. The river below shone coldly white; Dartmoor looked grey and ominous in the distance. Gradually, as we retraced our steps, clouds gathered and sun vanished.

Donkeys were not so keen to brave the cold this morning; so different from yesterday! For several weeks now they have had to stay in their big barn. Tiny Freddie has been lame for almost three weeks despite the efforts of vet and farrier. So poor old Christos has had to keep him company with silly old Larry-the-Lamb who still refuses to join the other wethers, rushing back into the donkey shed whenever the opportunity arises!  I really am beginning to believe he doesn’t know he’s a sheep! And on top of everything we have notice from DEFRA telling us we must all keep our chickens inside due to another outbreak, somewhere in Britain, of avian ‘flu.

But yesterday the sun shone and we opened the great metal door of the donkey shed at last. Mayhem followed! Whoops of joy: the air full of the sound of eeyors, galloping up and down the field, play fights, kicks in the air, joy all round! And, of course, now Tiny Freddie is lame again.

And to add to their entertainment, we have two beautiful visitors for the winter. Two gentle giants, sixteen hands and fifteen two! Tiny Fred and Christos are the biggest donkeys I have ever had and I’ve had many. But these elegant mares look down on them from far above. They live next door in the stables and spend each day in the big field we call Sunday Orchard. A gate and fence keep them separate from the donkeys who look up, wide eyed at these huge new lodgers in their yard.

All this keeps us busy in these strange isolated times. But we are so fortunate to have our fields to walk through and a garden to tend. We live just a mile or so from a quiet village by a beautiful river where we can greet our friends in the distance as we visit the local shop and go to church in our masks.

Christmas was different for us all this year of course. Like so many we could not be with our family. But we were fortunate enough to have four dear friends for Christmas Day supper. I was gifted a goose, a bird I haven’t cooked for years. It was delicious but, oh the goose fat!

We started with a tiny Japanese style dish of smoked salmon and prawns, nori, wasabi, ginger and lightly pickled cucumber and fennel. The goose followed and then a splendid Tarte au Pomme and Crème Chantilly prepared with a certain amount of theatre by a guest! 

Although it looked a big bird, I realised geese have far less meat on them than a turkey or a chicken. So, I decided to hedge my bets and make two stuffings, just in case. But first I removed as much fat as possible from inside the bird and reduced it down slowly in a saucepan. Some I put into jars for future use and some I set aside for the potatoes. There is no doubt that potatoes roasted in goose fat are the best!

Next, I softened some peeled chestnuts and shallots in a little butter and a dash of red wine. I stirred them into sausage meat with plenty of chopped fresh herbs and pepper and salt. This mixture went into the big cavity in the bird. I made a second stuffing with the goose liver, prunes, breadcrumbs and more shallots. I gently eased the skin back from part of the breast and pressed this stuffing a little across the breast then into the neck of the bird drawing the skin underneath and securing it with cocktail sticks.

This done, I pricked the skin of the whole bird with the point of a sharp knife, sprinkled it with plenty of salt and black pepper, but no oil, and cooked it in a fairly hot oven 180/190c allowing roughly twenty-five minutes to the pound.  I was careful to ladle out the fat at regular intervals. Towards the end I checked it with a skewer into the thighs and when the juices ran clear took it out and rested it while I made gravy.

With the bird we had Brussel sprouts with butter and flaked almonds, leeks, carrots and parsnips in a white sauce, those lovely crispy roast potatoes, unsweetened apple sauce and, of course, gravy.

A wonderful evening, a wonderful gift and a feast indeed despite the strange circumstances

Next day the small amount of meat left from the goose found its way into a pie enriched with a little of the stuffing. The rest of the stuffing became delicious rissoles and the carcase made amazing stock promising good soups for some time to come.

Here’s to a better , happier, healthier 2021 the whole world over.

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Nov 12 2020

Autumn

And here we are again thrust into another national lock-down, empty days stretching out ahead once more.  This time not even long warm summer evenings to enjoy. The clocks have gone back and dusk descends earlier each day creeping like a great grey blanket, spreading prematurely across a rain-soaked sky. As the light fades, we struggle up through mud to the yard.

Donkeys and dear old Larry-the Lamb come in for tea. Chickens scuttle back to their perches, snuggling up for the long night ahead and sheep head for the shelter of the hedgerow. Autumn is gently drifting into winter.

How fortunate are we to have space around us, fields to walk in, jobs to do outside, animals to care for. They know nothing of these difficult times. Millie and I walk up to the top fields each day, rain or shine, to check the sheep grazing quietly on the hills.

We gaze across our neighbour’s land at the river below and Dartmoor in the distance. We amble down to feed chickens, re-straw nest boxes, search for eggs, muck out the stables, or to be more accurate, I muck out while Mil races round bouncing on hay bales hoping for rats!

Autumn colours always lift my spirits. The valley is turning to gold. Trees surround us shimmering yellow, orange, red, lighting up majestically in rare moments of low autumn sunlight. Leaves swirl around me as I walk. They crunch under foot reminding me of long-ago childhood walks in Kensington Gardens to see Peter Pan’s statue.

And the last little roses sprinkle colour where they can.

Apples abound carpeting the ground. No piggies now to feast on them nor local cider press. I hate to see them go to waste and ponder what to do with them. They do at least provide a winter feast for the birds. Maybe the beautiful Redwings will return and gorge on them as they did last year.

Tomato vines wither still laden with unripe fruits and cucumber plants collapse under the weight of a big green harvest. I even have three aubergines! So, of course, jellies, pickles and chutneys are in the pipe line!

I find it even more comforting than usual in these strange times to fill the larder with winter treats, such good therapy!

A bucket of windfall apples turned into clear sparkly jelly with the help of a kitchen stool, a piece of boiled muslin and a large bowl.

 I put the sliced apples into a preserving pan. Just covered them with water I simmered them until soft. I tipped the softened mass into the muslin and let the juice drain over night. This time I had cored the apples which left me with wonderful apple puree which, once sieved, went into the deepfreeze.

Next morning, I measured the juice and put it in a clean pan allowing a pound of warmed preserving sugar to a pint of juice. Slowly I brought it to the boil skimming off the white scum from the top with a slotted spoon. I let it boil hard for fifteen to twenty minutes before doing a setting test: a tiny spoonful on a saucer into the freezer for a few minutes. If the skin wrinkles it’s ready for potting up. I find I usually have to test it too or even three times!! Maybe I’m too impatient!

When I’m satisfied setting point is indeed reached, I carefully pour small jugful’s of the hot liquid into sterilised jam jars being very careful not to burn myself. I cover each jar with a wax disc and a jam cover and look forward to winter treats.

Chutney is another soothing way to use up the end of autumn harvest on long lock-down days! Apples go in, of course, with the green tomatoes, a courgette or two maybe, a handful of little shallots, perhaps a red pepper. Garlic cloves and lemon rind follow with a piece of finely chopped fresh ginger, maybe a dried chilli or two, some mustard seed and spoonful of turmeric. It all depends what I have in garden and store cupboard. This year I added a good spoonful of Ras el Hanout, a gift from a friend, delicious!  All these are stirred together with plenty of brown sugar and white wine vinegar. Three dozen apples will need about 1 1/2 kilos of sugar and a litre of vinegar.  It’s always worthwhile warming the sugar just as for jams and jellies.

I let it all cook gently for an hour or two, stirring occasionally to stop it sticking to the pan. Gradually all things soften and begin to join together to become a wonderfully aromatic savoury jam, best potted up and kept for a few weeks before eating!

Piccalilli is another of my favourites; I enjoy making it as much as eating it! The traditional ingredients are, of course, cauliflower, courgette, green tomatoes, green beans and shallot but other vegetables can be added. Once chopped, I put them all in a big bowl and cover with salt and leave them for twenty-four hours to drain. It is then so important to rinse everything really well to get rid of the salt. When I’m satisfied the vegetables are drained, I pack them into sterilised jam jars.

Next, I mix together mustard powder, finely sliced ginger, crushed garlic cloves, peppercorns, turmeric, cumin, coriander and mustard seeds, some honey. Then in goes a little flour and enough white wine vinegar to turn it all into a smooth paste. As it warms, I gradually stir in more vinegar and cook it gently for about five minutes until I have a silky sauce.  I pour this over the vegetables, seal the jars while it is still hot and store for at least four or five weeks before eating…..if I can wait that long!!

The quantities vary depending on the amount of vegetables I have and, of course, individual taste.

So, my store cupboard and deep freeze are ready for winter and whatever we are faced with in the coming months. As I say to all my friends, we must stay safe, stay calm and wait and see what the months ahead and springtime will bring. I wait as always for that first snowdrop on Boxing Day, a sure omen of better things ahead!!

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Sep 19 2020

Harvest Begins

Time passes oddly in this strange new world, days creep by, weeks seem to fly. The worldwide struggle continues with the pandemic. Gradually restrictions are lifted only suddenly to return: the news is full of contradictions. Now here in England we may only meet with six people at a time again. Last week it was thirty. Soon we’re told it may be none! We struggle on! Life is changing, norms are shifting, wherever we are in the world.

Even the weather in our little corner of Briton is unusual: winter brought us weeks and months of relentless rain followed by the driest of summers. Now we find ourselves at the beginning of a strangely changeable autumn. Farmers rush to cut crops, bring in hay and straw for winter forage. One day the heat is relentless the next we fear the temperature will drop at night to a damaging low, all so extreme in early autumn.

But tiny good things lift my spirit. Walking with a friend recently by our little top barn we both looked up suddenly and stopped frozen in our tracks. “Quick look, who’s that peeping out of the nest box?” Creeping closer we saw a beak and feathers. A couple of minutes later two children left and landed, plonk, on the ledge below: baby kestrels! They stayed just long enough for our photo call before being summonsed for their flying lesson!

And then, only last week, the sound of autumnal buzzards seemed to come closer and closer to the house. Usually they whirl across the sky on the far side of the valley but this year is different. One now habitually takes up a stance on the top of the telegraph pole just beyond the back door. Thrilled the first time I saw it, I rushed out with my camera and managed a distant, rather out of focus shot, but oh, such a special treat!

We’re reducing our flock now. Time for dear old Hercule, our pedigree Whiteface ram, to move on to pastures new. He’s served his time well with us and produced some great offspring. But now he is too closely related to our ewes and must join a new flock.

Last week Paul had a wonderful, if slightly strange day selling sheep at the annual Whiteface sale. All masked up, farmers led their sheep into the pens at Exeter Livestock market. Judging commenced and, too our delight, we gained two first prizes. One for a pen of Whiteface yearlings and the second for a small group of cross breed Whiteface/ Suffolk girls. The latter made us smile!

It must have been eighteen months or more ago now, when walking dogs on the top fields, I came face to face with our neighbour’s handsome Suffolk ram in with our Whiteface ewes. Hm, I said to myself, I wonder what you doing here! A silly question; lambing time revealed all. And these were the yearlings that gave us first prize!

All sales successful, Paul returned with an empty trailer, two first prizes and a nice cheque! Flock reduced! Now we just have our ewes and last year lambs who are looking good and growing fast.

And now harvest begins. As the farmers all around are racing to bring in their crops so I am too, here in the garden.  I gather vegetables and fruit daily either for our supper or winter treats in the deep freeze. The raspberry crop was wonderful and we even had a bowl of cherries for the first time from our old tree; I fear it may be its swan song !

Beans have been wonderful too this year, both French and Runner. That is till our great pine tree suddenly toppled over one breakfast time. We jumped to our feet wondering at the loud cracking, crunching noise. Rushing outside we looked first at the roof, then the road in case of accident. We found nothing until we went to the yard to feed the animals and found the huge tree crushing the beech hedge and lying across the vegetable garden. It was a still day, no strong wind. How strange we thought but can only think it was the result of the very wet winter followed by such a dry hot summer. The roots did seem very shallow for such a giant. How sad it was to see the magnificent pine destroyed on the ground.

The tomatoes have been spectacular this year. As the season draws to a close. I wonder just how many more we can eat and how many more will fit in the freezer!! I have dried them in a cool oven, made ratatouille, tomato sauce for winter pastas, frozen bags full just as is, straight from the vine. And still there are plenty. How I love my own summer tomatoes but have to admit I’m not so enamoured with winter supermarket specimens! Hydroponics, aquaponics all so scientifically proven just don’t seem to deliver the flavour of a home-grown chap!!

I often make a sort of Salad Niçoise with tomatoes, anchovy, olives and our own cucumber, lettuce and little new potatoes and whatever else I have in the fridge. Today it is the turn of a beautiful piece of fresh tuna. A spatchcocked chicken is delicious with roasted tomatoes, as is a quick pasta with fresh tomatoes, chili, garlic, plenty of olive oil and parmesan. And so, I could go on and on!

I planted three cucumbers amongst the tomatoes and they too have been prolific. Deliciously sweet and tasting of so much more than just water, they have found their way into pickles and endless salads, accompanied cheese at lunchtime and, when too large and yellow, have been enjoyed by chickens.

Six new girls came to join us last week: a Blue Maran, a Splash Maran, a Rhode Island Rock, a Speckled Gold and two Light Sussex!  Gradually this rather startled group of youngsters are settling down with our five senior orange ladies. When the pecking order is re-established we look forward to a variety of coloured eggs!

The garden is just beginning to show signs of autumn. Trees have a tired look and show just a hint of the golden time to come.

Roses bloom on stoically, but generally there is a windswept look creeping into the valley and I ponder when the first frost will arrive.  

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Jul 07 2020

A Donkey Story

He arrived in the yard at exactly 2.30 in a smart grey van, Tor Equine writ large on its side. It was our first meeting. He listened intently as I told him her story. “Let’s go and meet her” he said. She was waiting quietly in their little yard, the two boys behind their gate looking on. There she was, a shadow of her former self. “Lice” I said “but something else? She is quite an old lady even for a donkey, nearly thirty maybe?”

He looked at her for a while then, gently “Now sweetheart, let’s listen to your heart and take some blood samples” Nutmeg stood quietly as he gave her a mild calming sedative. He said her heart sounded good. He put a brace on her nose and opened her mouth. He was silent for a while, then “look at this” he said and turning to me, quietly, “I can’t do anything for her”. He held the torch and I looked deep inside her mouth.

Silence. We looked at each other.  “I’ll fetch Paul” I said. Slowly we all walked down to the sheep shed. Minutes later she was gone. I opened the gates and called the boys. Down they came, looking around, into the big shed, sniff, spot her, walk all around her, sniff again. Then they turned on their heels, ran back to their little own yard and shouted at the top of their donkey voices. “That’s good” said the vet and we all knew exactly what he meant.

It was 1969 when Elisabeth Svendsen bought a donkey in Sidmouth, called Naughty Face. Gradually she gathered more. These donkeys were to change the face of donkey care across the world.  But it wasn’t until 1973 when Miss Philpin bequeathed Dr Svensen two hundred and four donkeys in her Will, that the Donkey Sanctuary became a charity.

Some of those donkeys I knew well. They had lived in Granny’s field near Reading looked after by a lady named Miss Green. There were six in all. Bill, charming to your face but quite prepared to bite any bottom as soon as a back was turned and Bluebell, a gentle grey. There were three others whose names I don’t remember. And, of course, there was Treacle, a small hump backed fellow with a huge personality.

At that time, we lived in Granny’s converted stable with our small children. One night when Paul was away sailing in the North Sea, I was woken by the doorbell.

Nervously I went to the glass front door. I could see the police uniform. Had he been shipwrecked, was I a widow: terrified thoughts raced through my head. Trembling I opened the door.

“Can you identify this donkey, madam”. Laughing with relief, I ventured out into the dark with the policeman who shone a torch on Treacle. He was accompanied by a pony.

“Oh” I said “Yes, that’s Treacle. He used to live here but recently went up the road to keep a pony company” Treacle had simply brought the pony back to join his pals!

Later I read that, despite his diminutive size, he had become known as “The Boss” at the Sanctuary, famous for keeping the “Big Boys Group” in order!

And so it was that when we came to farm in Devon, it was perhaps not surprising that donkeys were on my mind. I found an ad in Smallholder magazine. Off we went to collect Dandy and Sweep from a sad home near Torquay.

They were both thin and out of condition. As we drove home, we began to wonder what we had taken on. Dandy, we were told, was about twenty-two and had been with the same family since he was two. Sweep, much older, came free with Dan, a sort of early “buy one, get one free”. She was thought to have been an unlicensed beach donkey from north Devon at some time, but no one knew for sure.  Both donkeys looked so thin, lice ridden and dejected.

We hurriedly converted an old bullock shed into a stable, bought fresh hay and shampooed frequently to kill all bugs and clear the mange. Spring came, the grass grew, tatty winter coats vanished and suddenly they were transformed into sleek round little donkeys.

Sweep had a strange groove in her neck and never managed to lift her head properly. My vet thought that at some time she had been tightly tethered. But as she grew fitter and more cheerful it caused her no problem. We just remembered to put the hay on the ground or in an old bath tub for her. She was incredibly greedy and would shove us all in the back of the knees if she felt we were a little slow at teatime.

I smile when I remember my vet’s advice when he first met them, “He’s OK” he said looking at Dan “but she’s had a hard life. If I were you, I’d look for another companion for him; just in case” And so it was that I found a two-year-old Nutmeg some twenty-five years ago, at Woodlands Leisure Park. And dear old Sweep lived another ten years!

Suddenly I had three donkeys!

Dandy, the most sociable of all the donkeys, went for his Equity card at Christmas! He starred patiently in Nativity Plays, standing for an hour or so while minute angels sat on his back and diminutive shepherds stroked his head and stuck fingers up his nose. He processed to church on Easter Sunday with a gloomy looking Sweep in tow. He adored children and was happiest when he was giving rides on the “Ham”, our village green, on Village Day. He nuzzled the children and stood quite still as they sat on his back and stroked his long soft ears.

When old Sweep did finally leave us she ate her tea as usual and simply lay down quietly in the stable with Dan. Next morning we made sure all the donkeys had a chance to see her. They came one by one into stable sniffed her, stood for a while and then went off to eat some hay. They needed to know that Sweep had gone. Donkeys often go into shock when they lose a companion and fall victim to the fatal hyperlipemia.  In the wild they live in small social groups and look out for one another. I won’t forget the day Sweep trapped her leg in a rat hole and the others shouted and shouted till I arrived to dig her free.

Nutmeg, a beautiful little donkey, brown and sleek, was a complete contrast to these two gentle friends. She was adorable but a wild child. We used to laugh and say she’s put on her white high heels and her shiny handbag and she’s off down the town on a Friday night!!

A few months after she arrived, I went up to the yard, as usual, to feed them all, when I noticed Nutmeg was “bagging up”. I was right, a couple of days later she presented us with a beautiful little foal. It was Good Friday! So, of course he was named Friday. She was only about two or three years old, too young to foal. I was soon to learn that she had been running with a stallion who was her sire, not an auspicious beginning for the little chap.

Friday quickly grew into a replica of his mother; a very handsome little donkey. But then the problems began.  He developed an infection when he was castrated and took a long time to recover. Then he developed a sarcoid on his sheath. The vet returned. Nutmeg had one too on her tummy. My vet put us in touch with the Donkey Sanctuary vets and over time there followed three long stays in their veterinary hospital where they were treated by the best in the country.

After Nutmeg and Friday’s first stay, I wanted to thank the vets for their wonderful care. What could I do to repay them? “Foster two donkeys” they said. So, then we had six!

Bunty and Luke arrived. Two very different donkeys: Luke, a large gentle, obese grey, came from Skegness. His previous owners used to send him a Christmas card every year which he ate if given a chance! He in turn sent one back with news of his life in Devon and companion donkeys.

Bunty was a Strawberry Roan with Eire on her notes. Even after many years, both at the Sanctuary and later with us, she hated her ears to be touched; I guess they were cruelly twisted sometime in the past. She too had a rather strange figure, covered in lumps and bumps of hardened fat, making her less than streamlined. But she was a quiet gentle sweet natured, funny little mare.

After two more long stays at the Donkey Sanctuary hospital the vets finally decided they could do no more for Friday. Nutmeg returned to us without him.

And so the five companions continued to live quietly and happily on our little farm. They shared fields with sheep and watched piglets play over the fence.

Time passed and gradually so did they, all dying peacefully of old age until just Nutmeg remained. I rang the Sanctuary. “Do you have a companion for her?” Two big teenage boys arrived, Christof and Tiny Freddy and Nutmeg took on the role of senior mare, so very different from her youth!

For the past two years they have lived happily together. And I am quite sure that the boys are still looking for their matriarch.

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May 11 2020

Living Lock Down !

It’s over seven weeks now since the coronavirus lockdown order was announced: right across the world we must all obey the rules and stay at home. A recent e mail from, son, Tom, in rural Japan could have come from up the road! The restrictions on life sound absolutely familiar and yet they are living on the other side of the world. As each day passes a new vocabulary is emerging in every language: social distancing, self-isolation, stay safe, stay home, stay alert, R-numbers, wiggle-room and, of course, lockdown, to name but a few. How strange it all is.

Gradually and uncomfortably we must adjust to this isolating way of life; no friends for tea or supper, no family visits, no summer picnics or walks with friends, no hugs, no kisses. Sometimes there’s a chance of a wave to a neighbour or passer-by, a shouted greeting, but little else. We must all turn to our own resources. We must Zoom, phone, face-time, e-mail, twitter, what’s app…….

Oh, how lucky we are to have our garden.  Although it will be the first time in ten years that we will not be opening in June in aid of the National Garden Scheme Nursing Charities, it doesn’t stop me from gardening my socks off!! I just love to see spring turn into summer and the valley leap into life once more. And, of course, this is the most spectacular year! Wild garlic and bluebells vie with red campion. Camellias begin to fade replaced by blousy rhododendrons. The Embothrium, huge now, explodes into scarlet. The bright red leaves of photinia vie with azaleas. And forget-me-nots, azure as the summer sky, run riot; a cacophony of chaotic colour!  

Tomatoes stand to attention in the greenhouse. Courgettes are in place in the vegetable garden. Beans go in tomorrow when sunshine is a promise. Only my salad seeds are suffering after one of the orange egg ladies jumped the fence and had a scratch around in pastures new!!

Lambing time is finished now too. No more late nights and early mornings for us! But even so yesterday was a big day for Paul. All sheep came in for dagging, drenching and ovine manicures to keep everyone fit and healthy in the months to come. Rain has helped the spring grass grow and ewes graze peacefully on the hillside while lambs play together like kindergarten kids, donkeys looking on over the fence.

Like so many of us, penned up at this time, my thoughts have turned to cooking. I have always found it strangely therapeutic, odd, I know! In bygone days when I finished a hectic day at work on the farm having prepared all those dozens of salad bags and table birds for delivery, I would stare into the fridge and gently unwind as I planned an evening meal.

 Now I find myself gazing into the deep freeze and pondering how to create something without going shopping! I’m amazed at what has emerged!! Fig conserve made from last year’s frozen fruit. Big pots of chutney sit in the larder created from those strange green frozen tomatoes, a few shallots, fresh ginger and spices.

On a wet day I found a tub of chicken livers and made chicken liver pate.

I have spatch-cocked a chicken, rediscovered how delicious Salad Nicoise can be. I have cooked pork belly with lentils, ginger and sweet potato. We’ve had big flans filled with left over this and that, sea bream baked in parchment, simple pasta dishes, chicken risotto, even a sort of paella!

And then I came upon a packet of pork mince from my erstwhile pigs. Digging deeper revealed a few chicken thighs and a turkey liver! Terrine, I thought! All I needed was some streaky bacon and there it was.

I chopped a couple of shallots and crushed three cloves of garlic and mixed them into the pork. Salt and pepper followed with a glug of red wine.  I let it stand for a while to give time for the flavours to infuse. Meanwhile I lined a little loaf tin with bacon. In went half the pork mince and a layer of the chicken, skin removed. The turkey liver followed , some chopped parsley from the garden, then more chicken and finally the remaining mince.

Carefully I folded the bacon across the top and decorated it with a few slices of lemon and a couple of bay leaves. I covered it with tin foil and put it into a ban marie of hot water and into the oven at 180c. I checked it after an hour or so with a skewer to see if the juices were still pink. I continued cooking till they ran clear. Then out of the oven and on went a heavy weight. I have a brick, well washed, for this purpose but anything will do as long as it gently presses down the meat.

Once cold it went into the fridge; a treat in store! So good with a baked potato and salad.

But tonight it will be wonderful sausages made by our local Dartmouth butcher with a vegetable bake, that is to say, whatever I find in the fridge with a cheese sauce!

And we’ll all soldier on in this strange twilight world.

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